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growing
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Jorges Grow Corner in english
Harvest time is here! As plants mature growth characteristics change. Branches elongate, leaves grow fewer “fingers,” internode length between branches decreases and fertilizer needs change. Plants use more phosphorus and potassium and less nitrogen during flowering. Male plants should have been harvested already. Female calyxes develop small hair-like pistils. Resin production increases.
Publiziert am: 10.09.04 - Medienformen: Medienform Text


Some varieties – Ruderalis crosses, early indicas, Early Skunk, Early Pearl, Early Durban, etc. – will be ready by the end of September to the first of next month. The hardest part now is to wait for harvest and not pick the plants before they are at peak ripeness. Most other varieties will be ready to harvest in October or November.


Indica varieties are more prone to disease problems during late maturation than sativa varieties. The main reason is that indica buds are compact and dense, which allow little air flow. This environment gives Botrytis spores a sheltered place to grow. Sativa buds have more air between, which provides a difficult environment to start growing.


Botrytis (bud mold), rain, cold temperatures and wind are the main obstacles plants must overcome for a heavy harvest. Here is how to help your plants through this difficult time.


Botrytis grows best on weak damaged foliage in humid (above 50 percent) cool autumn weather. It is difficult to distinguish at first because it starts deep within the bud. The grey fuzzy mold and brown rot grows slowly at first. Once it develops, botrytis spreads rapidly.


If you see botrytis (see photo) cut it out with scissors that have been dipped in alcohol to sterilize. Remove 3-5 cm above and below the infected part. Throw the infected bud away, far from the garden. Do not smoke!


Several fungicides with real nasty sounding names - 1-methyl-cyclohexanecarboxylic acid (2,3-dichloro-4 hydroxyphenyl)-amide (IUPAC) or N-(2,3-dichloro-4-hydroxyphenyl)-1-methyl cyclohexanecarboxamide (CAS), from the chemical group Hydroxyanilide, and Dicarboximide as well as Benzimidazole fungicides are registered in America for botrytis prevention/control. Botrytis develops resistance to chemicals quickly.


Prevent botrytis with sprays of natural Gliocladium roseum and Trichoderma species. I am also experimenting with a nettle juice that smells like anaerobic cow manure to prevent botrytis. These natural substances form a protective coating on foliage that prevents botrytis from entering the plant system. They appear to work quite well, but they must be applied before botrytis starts.


Traditionally, the contact (not systemic) Bordeaux mixture (water, copper sulfate and lime (calcium hydroxide) arrests (stops) botrytis but cannot be applied near harvest and it can burn foliage if applied in hot weather or if applied in a high concentration.


Prevent botrytis by heating and ventilating greenhouses to create a hostile environment for growth. Often venting in the morning and evening when humidity rises insufficient.


If you are growing in a greenhouse or other enclosed environment, try using evaporated sulphur. I have seen outstanding results in Switzerland. Look for sulphur evaporators at greenhouse supply stores.


Help prevent botrytis by keeping the garden area clean. Remove debris from soil surface and remove all debris from the garden. A single spore of botrytis can infect a plant. More than 60,000 spores fit in one square centimetre!


Keep plants healthy and unscarred. Bud mold starts on bruised and damaged foliage and stems first. Weak foliage provides a place for botrytis to start and leaking plant fluids provide a food source. Once started, botrytis invades healthy plant tissue. Over-fertilization and spray damage also open the door to botrytis.


Remove weak inner branches and weak leaves to provide extra air circulation. Reeferman (www.reeferman.com) from Canada recently explained to me how to carefully separate the individual buds on a flower top to provide more air circulation to prevent botrytis. This works very well, but you have to be careful not to bruise buds.


If you see me at the Hanf Fair (name correct???) in Berlin this year, please show me you botrytis-free buds!



Jorge Cervantes
hanfjournal 04september artikel Jorges Grow Corner Schimmelpilz entzaubert hanfjournal 04september artikel Jorges Grow Corner Schimmelpilz entzaubert hanfjournal 04september artikel Jorges Grow Corner Schimmelpilz entzaubert
hanfjournal 04september artikel Jorges Grow Corner Schimmelpilz entzaubert hanfjournal 04september artikel Jorges Grow Corner Schimmelpilz entzaubert
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